Wednesday, 6 November 2013
My Style: Sam Lambert
Angola-born Sam Lambert is the co-founder of the creative duo and collective Art Comes First. Lambert has also designed for Saville Row’s Oswald Boateng and for Spencer Hart.
Q: Is comfort an enemy of style?
Comfort can never be an enemy of style. If you are uncomfortable it means that you are wearing the wrong items.
Q: Please describe your style in three words.
Sartor, alchemy, progression.
Q: What is the biggest mistake one can make when getting dressed?
Overthinking it. It should be fun, only then it will come easier.
Q: Do you believe in role models?
Yes, I do. It’s very important and disciplinary. In my line of business, it’s the only way for me to do the best I can — by looking up to someone. Liam Maher from Denham is my mentor.
Q: What are your favourite fabrics?
It has to be flannel and open weave wool. I love natural fibers with character, and these bad boys make good tailoring pieces.
Q: Are there any style combinations that you object to?
There are many, but I think the one I can’t stand is the wide tie over a casual soft collar shirt. Also, having more than double breaks on the suit pants and wearing sport socks with a suit.
Q: Which city has the best-dressed men?
A best-dressed man doesn’t have a city. He travels with his style from Tokyo, London, Paris, New York, and Stockholm all the way to South Africa.
Q: Would you say that you are conservative or bold?
None of the above. I have to say, like they say in Sweden, I am ‘Lagom’. Not too much, not too little. Just Mr Lambert.
Q: What are the rules in the way you dress?
It comes down to one thing: discipline. It’s the number one thing behind my style. This translates to grey scale being a colour palette, and trousers and shoes playing an important part in terms of the silhouette. Everything has to be proportional, nothing is oversized. Keep it tidy is the motto.
Q: Celebrities and style…
They need to do better research when it comes to style. It doesn’t take a few months or a lot of money when it comes to building one’s style; it takes a lifetime and knowledge.
Q: Name one garment/accessory that you can never have enough of?
I can never have enough hats.
Q: A man should always look like…
He is going to meet the love of his life. Because first impressions matter.
Q: Who taught you what you know about style?
I learned everything I know about style from my siblings. They always knew how to have fun with clothes. I grew up with three brothers and six sisters — you can imagine the style wars!
Q: How do you select your clothing every morning?
I prepare them the night before and I always start from the inside — like selecting my shirt, tie and hat. Then the rest will be influenced by those three items.
Q: What is your biggest regret?
Wearing baggy jogging bottoms in my hip hop days.
Q: The three essential things a man should know about style are…
1. Do not mix more than three colours. 2. Classic style is a win, going over the top is not stylish. 3. Proportions are key, regardless of whether you are tall or short.
Q: Do you have any shopping rituals?
I always visit vintage stores and flea markets in every city I travel to. It tells me how stylish the people from there are.
Q: We will never see you wearing…
Q: The most stylish person you have ever seen…
Well, a lot of my friends in the industry are very stylish, but I have yet to meet the most stylish person.
Q: What is the first thing you notice on a man?
The fit of their outfit. So my eyes go straight to the shoulders of the garment.
Q: The one image that defined your approach to style…
When you switch off an old black and white television, that flat line in the middle of the black screen.
Q: Which new designers do you admire and why?
I don’t follow any designers, since most of the stuff I wear I design them myself or they are vintage. But if I have to mention any new designers I support, I have to say Cottweiler in London. These kids got the know how when it comes to tailored sportswear, and the themes of the collections are always well-researched.
Q: The only article of clothing that a man needs to pay close attention to is…
His white shirts, this is a must have.
Q: What are the most treasured items in your wardrobe?
My white shirts, my leather jackets, and my made-to-measure suits from Café Costume in Belgium.
Q: Which designer never fails to impress you?
I would have to say Dries Van Noten. His fabric development and cuts are really interesting.
Q: Who would you like to recommend for “My Style”?
Mr Liam Maher from Denham, the jeans maker.
Q: The best words of advice you have ever heard?
“Work hard and you will get what you deserve.” — My mom, Ms Fueki Paulina
Photo: D. Pattinson